Tartan garments and home decor projects look best when the lines within the sett match up at the seams. So, sewing with tartan or plaid fabric can be tricky, even intimidating to those new to sewing. It is comforting though to realize that one needs only patience to master a few techniques and produce a good-looking result.
If you are working with a pattern, check to see that the pattern-maker hasn't advised that it isn't suitable for plaids as it will be impossible to match the plaid at critical junctures.
Also take note when the yardage instructions say “additional fabric may be needed to match stripes, plaids or one-way design fabric.” How much additional material you need will depend upon the size of the sett, or repeat, in the tartan. If at all possible, it is best to roughly lay the pattern pieces out on the fabric before it is cut from the bolt in order to judge how much additional fabric is necessary.
If this isn't possible, remember that a tartan with a smaller sett requires less additional fabric than a tartan, or plaid, with a larger repeat, in order to result in professional-looking matched seams.
Here is one way to gauge the amount of extra fabric required:
First, count the number of major pattern pieces, such as pant front and pant back.
Next, allow one extra repeat of the plaid for each major pattern piece.
Then, measure the repeat in your tartan. Measure from the first dominant line of a sett to the first dominant line of the next sett.
Example:
Let's assume there are three major pattern pieces: jacket front, jacket back and jacket sleeve.
The repeat is 4.5 inches in width, so we will estimate we need 4.5 inches times three major pattern pieces, or 13.5 additional inches of fabric.
Smaller pieces, such as pockets, can usually be matched from the fabric left after major pieces have been cut.
A good rule of thumb, is to buy one-quarter to one-half yard of additional material if the tartan is a small- to medium-sized repeat, and one-half to one yard additional if the plaid is a medium to large repeat.
Vicki Charron is the proprietor of Tartan House Canada, located in Edmonton, Alberta. She has over 40 years of experience in textiles and garment making. Her online fabric store – www.tartanhousecanada.com – ships tartan fabric and trims in wool, cotton, cotton blends, and polyester to buyers located around the world. She sells authentic registered tartans as well as plaid fabrics. Tartan House Canada can also supply custom design and weaving services.
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