In addition to the different styles of pockets (like the inset front pockets and the single welt back pockets), men’s pants are also designed with a variety of fly front plackets and belt loops. To make fly front plackets and belt loops, observe the following steps:
Fly front plackets are designed with facings as part of the garment sections or with separate facings finishing the placket edges. The zipper closure laps left over right for men’s wear, but the procedure can be reversed so that the closure would lap right over left on women’s clothes. If facings are cut in one piece with garment, zipper insertion into fly front placket is simpler than when placket facings are cut separately. Placket with separate facings can be changed to placket with attached facings by placing fly facing piece on center front of pants pattern, matching stitching lines. Facing is cut in one piece with garment, eliminating placket seam.
To insert zipper in fly front:
1) Mark fold and stitching lines on front pieces.
2) Interface fly facings to fold line if additional body is desired.
3) Finish outer edge of facings if necessary. Use method suitable to the fabric.
4) Pin front seam with right sides together.
5) Machine stitch from crotch seam to dot marking bottom of zipper placket, starting stitching 1 to 1-1/2 inches (2.5 to 3.8 centimeters) from inseam. Double stitch this seam for reinforcement.
6) Close zipper opening with machine basting following center front seam markings.
7) Clip through seam allowances to stitching at bottom of facing. Press seam open above clip.
Lay garment wrong side up so that only right facing is extended. Place closed zipper face down on extended facing and pin – left edge of zipper is along center front seam and bottom of zipper stop is at the bottom of placket opening, about 3/4 inch (1.9 centimeters) above lower facing edge. Pin in place.
9) Attach zipper foot to machine and adjust to right of needle.
10) Stitch zipper to facing, stitching one line close to zipper teeth and second line close to edge of zipper tape, from top to bottom.
11) Re-fold so that only left facing is extended. Pull zipper onto facing as far as it will go while remaining flat. Free edge of zipper tape will be on left facing and pleat will form at bottom of placket.
12) Adjust zipper foot to left of needle.
13) Stitch zipper to facing.
14) Press placket lightly from right side, using press cloth.
15) Stitch left front through garment, zipper, and facing on marked stitching line. Pull threads to inside and tie at the bottom of zipper.
16) Remove machine basting stitches and open zipper.
17) Open zipper completely. Stitch across zipper tapes at waistline seam to prevent tab from being pulled off. Trim zipper even with upper edge of pants.
Belt loops vary in width from 3/8 inch (1 centimeter) to 3 inches (7.5 centimeters). Belt loops are stitched at the top edge of the waistband and extended below the hand to allow the belt to cover the waistline seam. Stitching can be of matching or contrasting thread. Usually, seven loops are evenly spaced on the waistband with one being placed at the center back. Check a pair of ready-made slacks for size and positioning of the loops. The size depends on the width of belt to be worn with the pants. Belt loops can be reinforced by using twill tape or a woven fusible interfacing cut to the width of the finished loop.
To make fabric belt loops:
1) Decide on width and length of belt loops. Length of each loop is equal to the length of finished loop plus two 3/8 inch (1 centimeter) seam allowances. Multiply this by seven; cut one long strip this length and of width equal to three times finished width of loop. If the edge needs to be turned under because of raveling, add an additional 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) seam allowance.
2) For woven fabrics that ravel, zigzag one lengthwise edge or press under 1/4 inch (6 millimeters) before folding strip in thirds.
3) For fabrics cut along selvage or for knits that do not ravel, fold strip in thirds lengthwise. Press.
4) Topstitch as close as possible to each side of loop strip. Wider loops may be topstitched twice down each side.
5) Cut strip into seven equal lengths.
To attach loops before completing waistband:
1) Pin all loops (except loop at center back) in place, right sides together, allowing cut edge to extend 3/8 inch (1 centimeter) into waistline seam.
2) Baste in place along waistline seam.
3) Machine stitch across lower fold line of loop several times.
4) Attach waistband.
5) Fold loop along lower machine stitching.
6) Turn under 3/8 inch (1 centimeter) along unstitched edge and pin in place even with upper edge of waistband.
7) Securely machine or hand stitch close to folded edge.
Attach loop over center back seam. Fold loop up and finish top.
To attach belt loops after waistband has been completely finished, follow directions for attaching loop at center back (step 8).
As in making the inset front pockets and single welt back pockets, regular lining fabrics may not be sufficient for waistband facings. It is important, therefore, to use tightly woven or special stabilized knit fabrics for the needed strength in this stress area.
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